* Is this a new idea?
* Will it work for my gasoline (petrol) car?
* Why aren't there more diesels running on vegetable oil?
* What's the difference between straight vegetable oil ("SVO") and "biodiesel"?
* Will "SVO" work for me? What engines have your kits
been used on?
* What fuels can I use after I have added an SVO kit to my car?
* How well does it work in cold weather? What do I need for where I live / for my vehicle / for the oil I will be using?
* What if I forget to "Switch back to diesel"?
* How do your Vegtherm Standard and Vegtherm MEGA heaters work?
* How do your component packages work, and what is included?
* What is meant by a "hose-in-a-hose" (HIH) - does your system use this idea?
* Can I use waste vegetable oil ("WVO") from restaurant fryers? (used cooking oil)
* Why do you need to use a "two-tank" system? Don't some people modify their engines to run just on vegetable oil?
* What oil is best, for use as SVO?
* I have a Mercedes Benz with the Bosch inline injection pump and pre-chambers - do I still need to use a "two-tank" system
and heat the vegoil?
* I have a VW - do they work? Do they need an extra fuel pump, since there is no "lift pump"? What if I need to prime
the system?
* What about direct injection, including VW TDI engines? I have heard they're not as well suited as indirect injection
(pre-chamber) engines?
* Where do I get oil?
* How do I filter WVO before it goes into the tank?
* What do you mean by "experimental use"?
* How do emission, fuel economy and power compare with biodiesel and with diesel fuel?
* How long does it take to install your system?
* Can I install it myself?
* How long does an order take to arrive?
* How do I order?
* Which is better, SVO or biodiesel?
* What about California Road Taxes?
Is this a new idea?
No. Diesel's first engines ran on peanut oil. Soon after, fossil oil (mineral oil) became widely available and inexpensive,
and became the dominant fuel in the world. Engine and fuel system development for the diesel therefore became centered around
"diesel fuel" - a less viscous fuel than vegetable oil. This is why we now have to use either the "heating" approach or the
"biodiesel" approach to make vegetable oil thin enough to use in existing diesel injection systems. We are adapting the fuel,
rather than the engine or the existing fuel system. The original fuel system remains intact, and the engine can use diesel
fuel at any time. Despite the fact that vegetable oil was used in early diesels, its reappearance of vegetable oil on the
world fuels scene is relatively recent, so from that standpoint, it is a relatively unknown and underutilized fuel. This is
changing quickly - there are now literally thousands of engines using SVO and WVO.
User experiences have been generally positive, but because SVO does not have the extensive testing of diesel fuel or even
of biodiesel, any SVO system should be considered to be "experimental". Internet-based databases of real-world experience
with SVO use have been established. These will help further the acceptance of SVO. One of these is based in Germany. Please
see our links and article page for the hyperlink.
Will it work for my gasoline (petrol) car?
No. This is only for diesel engines. Diesels work by compressing air much more than is the case with a gasoline (petrol) engine.
This creates high temperatures, and causes a fine mist of injected oil to self-ignite from the heat of compression and combust.
The fine mist ("atomized") oils injected into the cylinder just before the piston reaches the top of the compression stroke.
There is no spark plug or ignition system in a diesel engine. It is designed to burn a light viscosity oil. Vegetable oils
are heavier/thick/more viscous, and so need to be made thinner (less "viscous", lower "viscosity") to work. This is why "biodiesel"
(alkyl ester, usually methyl ester) is made ....or, alternatively, why vegetable oil is preheated in our systems.
The chemical process of making biodiesel, or the pre-heating of the vegetable oil both achieve this goal: reduction of viscosity.
If that is done, then the engine will run. But never a gasoline engine, only diesels!
Why aren't there more diesels running on vegetable oil?
Until recently, diesel fuel has been relatively inexpensive, and its negative environmental effects were not well understood.
As diesel fuel has become more scarce and expensive and the negative environmental and political consequences of reliance
on nonrenewable fossil fuels has become obvious, interest in vegetable oil fuels has increased exponentially.
STRAIGHT VEGETABLE OIL
What's the difference between straight vegetable oil ("SVO") and "biodiesel"?
SVO is just that - nothing but pure vegetable oil.
The term "biodiesel" usually refers to alkyl ester (usually methyl ester). These esters are derived from vegetable oil. The
sticky glycerine (glycerol) component of the original triglyceride (vegetable oil) is replaced with another alcohol component
via the process known as transesterification. Methanol is most often used for this, since it is widely available, the least
expensive, and gives a reliable chemical reaction. (Methanol is sometimes called "wood alcohol", even though it has not been
made commercially from renewable sources like wood for many years, but rather from non-renewable natural gas).
Even low levels of exposure to methanol, over longer periods of time can be a problem:
" Clinically, chronic, low-level exposure to methanol has been seen to cause headaches, dizziness, nausea, ear buzzing, GI
disturbances, weakness, vertigo, chills, memory lapses, numbness & shooting pains, behavioral disturbances, neuritis, misty
vision, vision tunneling, blurring of vision, conjunctivitis, insomnia, vision loss, depression, heart problems (including
disease of the heart muscle), and pancreatic inflammation" (Kavet 1990, Monte 1984, Posner 1975).
Ethanol (grain alcohol) is renewable, and safer, in terms of accidental or occupational exposure, and can be used, but is
more difficult and expensive to work with - really to the point that most small-scale and commercial producers of biodiesel
do not use ethanol, even though they would like to.
Biodiesel making requires these chemicals, their mixture, to make a catalyst, safe heat sources, a mixer/processor of some
sort, and finding some way to use the glycerol (approx. 15% glycerol is obtained from each batch). Often, biodiesel "home
brewers" (including us, in the past!) find that they really don't have a use for the glycerol, and it accumulates and needs
to be composted or disposed of.
Storage, handling (spill/splash), heating (flammability and explosion), respiration, and ventilation concerns must be taken
seriously when making biodiesel. Also, in some regions, it is difficult and/or expensive to obtain the needed materials.
Closed biodiesel processors, explosion-proof motors, etc. are highly recommended!!
While many people do enjoy making biodiesel, and do so safely, making a quality product, others prefer the SVO approach for
its ease of use and freedom from reliance on chemicals. For those who travel and collect oil along the way, SVO is much easier
than making biodiesel "on the road".
SVO use, by contrast to biodiesel, requires a heated fuel system, and most often a second fuel tank and filter, to be able
to start the engine, move the SVO from tank, through fuel lines, filter, injection pump and injectors, as well as to accomplish
the best atomization within the engine (lowest emissions, and least likely to cause harm to the engine).
The objective is to heat the vegetable oil to approx. 70C (158F) at the point of injection. Note that it is not necessary,
or even desirable, to try and heat the SVO to this high temperature in the entire fuel system, only at the point of injection!
So, SVO can be heated "progressively", along it's path from the tank to engine, and it is most effective to use a combination
of coolant-based heaters at the tank, at the filter, etc. and then use an electric heater just before the injection pump.
In many cases, in warm and moderate climates, good new or lightly used cooking oils, it is not necessary to use a tank heater.
However, with thicker "grease", that is, vegetable oil that has become more "hydrogenated" by its time in a fryer at high
temperatures, and this in combination with cooler ambient (outdoor) temperatures, tank heaters can certainly be desirable.
As an example, a system could function perfectly in Arizona or California, or other warm/hot climates, year round, even on
used cooking oil, without a tank heater and without a "heated path" (heating of the SVO fuel line by running coolant lines
from the engine along its path to the tank)
Will "SVO" work for me? What engines have your kits been used on?
SVO is preferred by many people for ease of use. It will work well for many diesel owners. Our kits or components (e.g. Vormax,
Vegtherm, 6-port motorized fuel selector valve) have been used on the following applications, to our knowledge (there may
be others we are not aware of, of course)
Dodge Cummins, mostly 12 valve models, perhaps a few 24 valve models.
Ford IDI (6.9 and 7.3L, both turbo and non-turbo) and Powerstroke (with optional Powerstroke Package, contact us for details)
GM 6.2 and 6.5, turbo and non-turbo
Isuzu
Kubota
Lister-type
Mercedes 240, 300, turbo and non-turbo, and pre-86, as well as newer models
VW 1.6 and 1.9, and 1.9 TDI
Ford and John Deere tractors
What fuels can I use after I have added an SVO kit to my car?
Diesel, biodiesel, new or used vegetable oil.
*NOTE*: Can you still run diesel, can you blend, and can you run diesel in the SVO tank?
Yes, yes, and yes! If you go single tank you can also mix fuels or run diesel anytime in any proportion.
How well does it work in cold weather? What do I need for where I live / for my vehicle / for the oil I will be using?
Depending on the oil you use and the vehicle condition, our systems can be specified and equipped for cold weather use. Options
such as Hotfox tank heaters, Hotplate heat exchangers, the Vegtherm, 120V pad heaters applied with an adhesive to the outside
of the SVO tank, etc. are all available from us. 120V engine block heaters, oil pan pad heaters, propane or diesel-fired "parking
heaters" for pre-heating the engine are a very good idea, since they will reduce the time to "switch-over", and minimize the
required "purge" times when using "two-tank" systems, and will extend the lower ambient temperature limits of "single tank"
systems (see below, and other sections of our site, for more details on the two-tank and single-tank systems, and their application).
Here are some example applications, and what we would recommend:
SCENARIO #1: Warm Climate
"I live in California, where it hardly ever goes to freezing in winter, I have an older Mercedes, and I intend to use oil
that will not go solid in the tank even in the colder months of the year. The engine compression, starter, glow plugs, battery,
and connections are all good"
RECOMMENDATION: Ideal candidate for a single tank system, with no other options.
SCENARIO #2: Moderate Cold
"I live where it gets to around freezing, but not much below, in winter. I intend to use fairly good oil, but I am not sure
it will always be liquid in the tank"
RECOMMENDATION: A two-tank system is needed here, with a tank heater (Hotfox or pad heater...the Hotfox or other coolant-based
tank heater (solid plate welded in side or bottom of aluminum tank, for example, NOT a "transmission cooler" or "copper loop"!)
Modified transmission oil coolers have been known to leak, and cause coolant loss. Copper coils in tanks may also crack, in
time, from vibration, and vegetable oil reacts with copper to form a "greenish slime" - not something you want happening in
the tank! The Hotfox is rugged, welded stainless steel. A solidly engineered component that effectively heats the oil in the
tank both outside itself and as the fuel is picked up and travels through the fluted fuel pickup tube on its way up the Hotfox
and to the engine.
SCENARIO #3: VERY COLD CLIMATE
I live where it gets really cold in winter. The "oil" will be a solid mass every morning for months in the winter, even if
I were to use new oil, or very good used oil, it would be semi-solid or solid.
RECOMMENDATION: A two-tank system and a Hotfox tank heater needed, and perhaps additional heating options, such as Hotplate,
pad heater on the oil pan (120V) if not already equipped with a block heater
What if I forget to "Switch back to diesel"?
If you forget to purge the vegoil out, and shut the engine off for more than an hour or so, you may have difficulty restarting,
even when you've switched back to diesel. We include a buzzer with our kits which will sound if the ignition is shut off,
but the fuel switching valve is left in the "SVO" position. Then engine is then restarted, switched to the "start/purge" fuel,
run for a minute or two, and shut down.
How do your Vegtherm Standard and Vegtherm MEGA heaters work?
The Vegtherm is a 12 volt inline heater. It was designed specifically to heat vegetable oil to a maximum of ~ 70 C. (assuming
an inlet temperature of min. 25 C...room temperature and matching the heater(s) to the task, namely the flow rate of fuel
to be heated in a specific application).
Power is supplied via a relay. In "two-tank" SVO systems, it is wired so that power is supplied to the heater when the fuel
selector is switched to SVO. The oil passes through a tubular section of aluminum that has been designed for efficient heat
transfer, within which the inherently self-limiting heating elements are placed. Heat is transferred to the aluminum extrusion
and to the vegoil. The design of the heater is proven technology which does not require the use of a thermostat. Amperage
draw varies according to inlet temperature and flow rate, rather than continuous on/off cycling. See the Vegtherm product
page for more information.
For example, a Vegtherm Mega can draw up to 32 amps @ 12 volts. Typically the heater draws 6-10 amps when first switched on.
This quickly rises to a max. of ~ 28 amps, if needed, and then tapers off again to a more steady 10-20 amp range as the "return"
fuel begins to recirculate in the system. A Vegtherm Standard draws about 20A at full power. Waste engine heat is added to
this return fuel, since the fuel has passed through the injection pump and injectors, and these are heated by lubricating
oil (in inline injection pumps) and by the heat of combustion within the cylinder being transferred to the fuel via the hot
injectors. If additional heating beyond the capacity of the Vegtherm and the flow rates it was designed for (typical 4 cylinder
diesel at cruising speed, with a "looped return") is needed, a Hotplate can be added.
The Hotplate heat exchanger is a high quality stainless steel plate type heat exchanger and is coolant operated (connect to
heater lines in engine bay).
Both Vegtherm Standard and Vegtherm Mega units now come with 40 amp auto-resetting circuit breakers, and Bosch relays.
Wiring, connectors, instructions, and rear window sticker are included.
How do your component packages work, and what is included?
Designed to provide an effective packaged solution to using SVO as fuel for a diesel engine.
Details of what is included in various kits we offer can be found at other pages of this site.
I've read that some diesels and some injection pumps don't work well on SVO or WVO - is this true?
Lucas/CAV pumps are reportedly the most likely to fail on SVO. It seems they are subject to high wear rates and have some
components that cannot withstand the higher viscosity of SVO (even heated, SVO is thicker than diesel fuel). However, many
people use a cautious approach of very fine filtration and thorough heating, and have not experienced failures. The Lucas/CAV
would almost certainly not survive long with a single tank system, where the engine is started on SVO. By contrast, the Bosch
inline pump as found on older Mercedes engines seems to be especially tolerant of SVO.
Any rotary pump that has been exposed to years of low sulphur diesel fuel, and many hours/miles, may be weak. Many of these
pumps fail every year in normal (diesel fuel) use, in any case. Therefore many pumps are rebuilt and exchanged, and so are
relatively inexpensive. What seems to happen is that IF (and it does not happen in most cases) a pump fails, and is replaced
with a fresh rebuilt pump and the SVO is thinned enough so as not to be too thick, then these pumps work fine for a long time
thereafter. In many cases, even older pumps that have never been replaced or rebuilt are working without problems.
Bosch and Bosch-derivative "VE" ( as found in many Japanese diesels) are quite good on SVO.
The Bosch inline (injector lines emerge all in a row) pumps, as found on older Mercedes, mid-90's Cummins, and Land Cruisers,
etc. are VERY rugged and highly recommended.
Although the principles of the "two-tank heating approach" with diesel or biodiesel start/stop have been used by many people
with good success, the general practice should still be considered
experimental. Single tank applications and applications
on direct-injection engines are in a higher risk category than older indirect injection and two-tank applications.
What is meant by a "hose-in-a-hose" (HIH) - does your system use this idea?
No, we do not use a "hose-in-a-hose" in the sense of sending coolant down one hose, and running the SVO line inside of that.
We consider this too risky. There is the risk that over time, a plastic line or copper or aluminum line could crack (especially
if it's kinked, straightened and re-bent, during installation, which happens all too easily!) This could result in engine
coolant being slowly lost to the fuel stream, resulting in an overheated engine. Our kit does use a coolant loop from engine,
to heated filter (Vormax) and then along the path of the SVO lines and to the Hotfox coolant-operated tank heater, if present.
Can I use waste vegetable oil ("WVO") from restaurant fryers? (used cooking oil)
Yes, WVO can be used in our system. We consider Canola (one variety of rapeseed, and commonly used as a cooking oil) to be
one of the best, and certainly there has been more research on this oil for SVO use than others, since it is grown in Germany,
where there is more SVO activity than anywhere else. The principle is that the oil to be used needs to be liquid enough to
pour, at the ambient temperature you intend to use it. The oil can be "as thick as thick gravy, without needing a tank heater".
An oil that is lower on the scale of Iodine Values is certainly best. If the oil is higher iodine value, and higher FFA (such
as used soybean oil) it is advisable to keep looking for a source of good Canola oil, or buy new Canola (rapeseed oil is essentially
the same for fuel use) oil and blend 50/50. It is necessary to have an oil that will resist oxidation and polymerization.
Oil should be collected and used as soon as possible after use in a fryer, and it should be kept sealed to minimize exposure
to air, rainwater, and light. We don't advocate "dumpster diving" - there are better ways to get oil and to reduce the risk
of using oil that is so poor in quality you may damage injection system or engine parts. Please read the "Used Cooking Oil
Fuel" article.
Why do you need to use a "two-tank" system? Don't some people modify their engines to run just on vegetable oil?
We do offer some single tank systems, but at this time only for certain Mercedes. The Vormax filter, mounting bracket, some
fittings, the Vegtherm heater, larger diameter fuel lines connectors, wiring, and instructions are included. Only recommended
for those operating in warm climates with good, liquid oil. Tank heaters (pad heaters in 120V or 12V, or coolant-operated,
the Hotfox) are offered as accessories to extend the capability of this system. We now offer an adaptor which allows the Hotfox
to be mounted into the original fuel tank on the older Mercedes sedans.
Special glow plugs, glow plug timers, and "modified injectors" are not needed for these cars, in our experience, if the oil
is of good quality, it is a warm climate, and the engine compression, starter, battery, cables, glow plugs, alternator, etc.
are in good condition.
What oil is best, for use as SVO?
Canola oil (rapeseed oil, and the related mustard oil) is one of the best and can be located with varying degrees of effort
in most areas of Canada and the US, as used cooking oil. Other oils may be less suitable. Basically, a low iodine value oil
that resists oxidation/polymerization, and that also had lower free fatty acid (FFA) values, is best. Be aware that some oils
have higher Iodine Values (IV is a test method, there is no Iodine in the oil itself) than others, as new oils, and also be
aware that FFA values increase as oil is used in a fryer.
I have a Mercedes Benz with the Bosch inline injection pump and pre-chambers - do I still need to use a "two-tank" system
and heat the vegoil?
Most of the people running SVO without any heating, in older Mercedes Benz engines, are running new rapeseed oil. They have
had quite high success rates. However, other oils, including WVO are MUCH thicker at the same ambient temperature. As mentioned
above, we do offer SingleTank systems for the older Mercedes models only, and if the oil is not too thick nor the climate
too cold, they work well.
I have a VW - do they work? Do they need an extra fuel pump, since there is no "lift pump"? What if I need to prime the
system?
The indirect injection VW engines are fine for SVO. If the oil is liquid and the injection pump in good shape, the oil will
flow and work well with our system. Some older, worn pumps may need an electric booster pump, (or a rebuild - it's amazing
what a new set of injectors and a rebuilt pump can do!!) but most work well without it. A two-tank (TTVTS) package is recommended.
Ford/GM/Dodge: Many of these have also been converted.
Toyota, Nissan, Mazda: These can be converted. The older Toyota Landcruisers use pre-chamber engines and Bosch-type
inline pumps similar to the older Mercedes. In a warm climate, the same setup used on the older Mercedes can be used on a
"Canadian" diesel Landcruiser. There are also quite a number of late 80's and early 90's "Japanese right hand drive" diesels
entering Canada via importers at this time. A number of our customers have converted these with success and have been operating
on used Canola, especially, for some time (over a year, as of June/05). Some have accumulated significant mileages, and have
operated in very cold climates with few difficulties, with properly equipped two-tank systems and the right techniques.
What about direct injection, including VW TDI engines? I have heard they're not as well suited as indirect injection (pre-chamber)
engines?
Direct injection engines of the older type, as found on tractors, for example, have not been considered to be very well suited
for SVO conversion. Newer "TDI" (turbo direct injection), etc. engines are seem to be more suitable than their predecessors.
This may be due to the higher injection pressures, injector types, and different combustion chamber and piston designs.
Comments on Journey to Forever (journeytoforever.org), quoting Ed Beggs, founder and president of Neoteric Biofuels Inc. (owners
of the plantdrive.com site), regarding the "TDI Controversy" are several years old. These engines have been successfully converted.
They seem to be doing as well or better than the earlier VW's.
Where do I get oil?
For SVO (new oil), cold pressed oils direct from farmers or farmer-owned cooperatives would be ideal. The farmers would have
a value added product, they could use the fuel themselves, and the presscake pellets form the cold pressing operations can
be used as feed, natural fertilizer, and natural pesticide (varies with oil). New crops with rotation or other benefits to
the soil can be introduced, and find a market, inedible seeds can sometimes be used, and in some countries, seeds can be harvested
from trees/shrubs grown as living fences that provide sticks, fencing, wind erosion and other agro-forestry benefits.(E.g.
Honge oil in India). The opportunity to use low value seeds (e.g. "green" or "heated" Canola seed) and add value is created
for the farmer, who would otherwise sell these seeds at very low prices.
1. Oil can be purchased in bulk from oilseed processing plants.
2. Pubs, chip trucks, restaurants...also from oil pressing plants, fried food factories, etc. Sometimes, new oils are available
as out of date food grade oils from food distributors.
3. If you use WVO from a local restaurant, ask them to put the oil back into the original containers once it is cool, and
pick it up regularly to a schedule that works for them.
4. Again, Canola oil is best. Try to use oil that is as close to "new" in its condition as you can.
How do I filter WVO before it goes into the tank?
With our systems, you no longer need to do anything beyond allowing the oil to settle in a warm (room temperature) drum for
a few weeks, before use, then pump it thru the Wand we offer, using the VegAuto Pump. Many people do use our convenient, robust
12/24V transfer pump, and "The Wand", to create a transfer and pre-filtering system. The Wand has a 70 micron metal mesh screen
that removes for easy cleaning.
What do you mean by "experimental use"?
Plant oil as fuel should still to be considered "experimental" at this stage. WVO/UCO should be considered to be even more
experimental than use of new cold pressed or food grade oil, since it's characteristics are more variable and harder to control.
We do NOT recommend use of plant oil as alternative diesel engine fuel for engines that are still under warranty, and it must
be understood that most newer diesels are much more complex and sensitive than older designs.
That being said, tens of thousands of SVO diesels are now in use every day and many of these have operated for several years,
some in excess of 100,000 km, without problems. A fuel standard (the RK Technical Standard) has even been developed in Germany
for SVO, and an EU-wide fuel standard is under development. Plant oil as a fuel is a reality, and has moved well beyond the
"backyarder/hobby/early adopter" stage.
With proper conversion components, installation, use and maintenance, and attention to oil quality, many users are currently
experiencing excellent performance with minimal pre-treatment of the oil.
Some biodiesel advocacy groups, petroleum diesel suppliers, repair shops, manufacturers, academic researchers, and even some
of the early adopters will sometimes be very critical of the use of plant oil as a diesel engine fuel. We ourselves have had
a reputation for being among the most conservative of component suppliers and consultants. The reality is that diesel fuel
and biodiesel can also create problems, and do, in some cases. As the old saying goes "anything can be done badly". Injection
pumps wear on low sulphur and ultra low sulphur diesel fuel...it is a poor lubricant. This is well known. Biodiesel can be
badly made. More than a low percentage blend of biodiesel can create gelling, filter blocking, fuel line and seal problems.
This is also well documented. And yes, the improper use of poor quality plant oils in poor SVO systems can cause problems.
But, all these fuels can also be "done properly". Diesel lubricity additives and cetane improvers, etc. can improve diesel
fuel. Biodiesel can be made to specification, filters changed, hoses and seals changed or monitored. Plant oil quality can
be determined, and changes made to the fuel system, to minimize problems. SVO systems can be well designed and well built,
and users educated.
Therefore, it is our position at this point in time that plant oil can be, and increasingly often is, a technically and economically
feasible alternative diesel engine fuel. We base this not on wishful thinking or ignoring problems, but on the knowledge that
we have gained from a number of years of personal use, research, and contact with customers, other component suppliers and
with researchers who have taken the subject seriously.
How do emission, fuel economy and power compare with biodiesel and with diesel fuel?
Emissions results do vary between engines and test equipment, but in our tests on an early 80's VW turbodiesel, opacity (which
is used as an indicator of particulate emissions) was reduced by about 50%, compared to premium diesel fuel. Other EPA regulated
emissions were about the same for all the fuels tested. Power was equal to premium diesel that test. We find no difference
power while driving, between diesel and SVO/WVO, as long as the filter is clean and the SVO is heated. See the section on
emissions.
How long does it take to install your system?
Depending on the type of conversion and your level of skill and experience, conversions take 2-4 days.
Can I install it myself?
If you have moderate mechanical automotive wiring and fuel system skills, a willingness to learn and be patient, and basic
tools, you can install our system. It is necessary to be very diligent and quality-conscious in the work, to follow instructions,
to ask us if are having a problem. You may prefer to have a professional mechanic with diesel fuel system experience do the
work for you, or have the components installed by us - in fact, we recommend one of those options.
How long does an order take to arrive?
Usual delivery time is within 2-3 weeks in the US. International orders can take longer. PLEASE note that if you are importing
you will likely incur a cost for import brokerage and duty, and may receive a bill from the broker later. The amount varies
by country. It is usually a small proportion of the cost of the items imported.
How do I order?
You can order our products online via secure server. Some require that you provide some details. An email to us telling us
of what you plan to do, the type of engine, where you plan to install the filter, etc. will also be helpful.
Which is better, SVO or biodiesel?
As to biodiesel versus SVO, there really is no "better". You have to start with oil for both.
Some people enjoy the chemistry challenges of making biodiesel, and others prefer the more "mechanical" nature of SVO conversion.
In fact, a lot of people do some of each, using "less suitable" oil to make biodiesel, and the better oil for SVO. Then they
use the biodiesel for start/stop fuel in a two-tank SVO system.
• Reduced Emissions
• No sulfur emissions (plant oils have negligible sulphur) = no acid rain contribution
• Reduces soot (diesel smoke) 30-60%
• Carbon dioxide emissions eliminated (LCA)
• No global warming contribution (Plant oils capture the sun's energy via photosynthesis, and use carbon dioxide to
grow - the CO2 is released again in a closed-loop, when the fuel oil derived from the seeds is burned)
• Renewable
• Biodegradable
• Economical
• Wide variety of local-derived sources - hundreds of plant oils worldwide
• No chemicals, no processing, no capital investment in production facilities
• Recycles a waste - used cooking oil
• Supports Farmers
• Energy Independence
• Allows on-farm fuel production (using a small scale cold press)
• Fastest Payback of any renewable energy
• Methods in use since 1999
• Thousands of engines now on SVO
• Good results
For Tax obligations in California go to this site: http://www.boe.ca.gov/sptaxprog/sptaxpubs.htm
SELECTING A DIESEL
CATEGORIES OF DIESEL ENGINES AND GENERAL SUITABILITY FOR SVO USE
Diesel engines fall into one of several broad categories.
DIRECT INJECTION - "CLASSIC" TYPE
The first might be called the "classic" direct injection engine, as used in tractors, trucks, marine engines, generators,
etc. for many decades. These were rugged, simple designs that provided lots of power (and pollutants) and were also relatively
noisy - both of these things resulting from the fact that fuel was injected in "one shot" directly into the combustion chamber.
A number of studies and experiments involving the use of vegetable oils as fuel in these engines have been performed over
the years. These studies most often did not pre-heat the oil, and did not use two-tank methods, and often did not use the
most suitable oils. The results were generally discouraging, with a high incidence of "coking" of the injectors and other
serious problems reported. It was the knowledge gained from this work that led to the focus on development and use of "biodiesel".
It also led some researchers (professional and independent alike) to carry on with the study and use of straight vegetable
oil, to see what might be done to resolve the issues (primarily coking/poor combustion) encountered. This has largely been
accomplished. The most often cited reason for the continued interest is economic...it often costs less to use SVO than to
make or buy biodiesel.
INDIRECT INJECTION (Pre-chamber) TYPE
Quieter and cleaner burning, but somewhat less efficient engines were developed for use in passenger cars, and other applications.
These include the older Mercedes and VW engines, among others. The Mercedes engines up to 1999 are excellent for SVO use,
having both "inline" injection pumps and an excellent pre-chamber design.
MODERN DIRECT INJECTION TYPE - COMMON RAIL, UNIT INJECTOR, ETC.
These are more recent, since the mid-nineties. Examples include the VW TDI, Ford Powerstroke, and most other modern diesels.
They typically use mechanical or computer controlled injection that provides an initial, smaller shot of fuel directly into
the combustion chamber, followed by the main injection of fuel milliseconds later. The result is an engine with all the power
and efficiency of direct injection, but one that is quieter, cleaner, and *may* be at least as suited to SVO use as the indirect
injection engines - although this is not yet established. These designs do emulate what happens in an indirect injection engine
in some ways, and do operate at higher injection pressures, and do use more advanced glow plug systems, etc. - all of which
bode well for SVO use. However, they also require fuel that is of higher quality and is even cleaner than ever!
The diesel fuel is often filtered to at least 5 microns (sometimes as low as 2 microns) in these systems, whereas in the older
engines, 10 microns was most common. Higher injection pressures and closer tolerances and computers with viscosity sensors,
etc. demand cleaner, higher quality SVO than older designs.
Planning an SVO Conversion
One of the first decisions most people face is which diesel they should obtain. Here are some general ideas to get you started
on the decision process:
Car or truck?
If you do not need a truck, don't drive a truck (or SUV). You'll pollute less, and you'll need less fuel. That leaves more
for the next person, supports the whole "sustainability" idea behind all of this, and on a practical level means that much
less oil you will need to obtain, process, haul home, pre-filter, etc. and that many fewer jugs and cardboard sleeves (often
this is the way you will get your oil) to be recycled.
Examining your real needs, and thinking seriously about this in advance can really help simplify the decision process and
save you time and money later.
Fuel-efficiency:
Let's say you decide that a car will work for your needs. The next item is a personal choice - how fuel-efficient do you want
it to be? Generally, a 4 cylinder front wheel drive (e.g. a VW) is going to give the best fuel economy. 4 and 5 speed manual
transmissions are also quite a bit more fuel efficient than automatics. It goes down the scale from there.
Traction:
Front wheel drive does offer better traction in snow and ice. (Examples: VW cars are front wheel drive, Mercedes are rear
wheel drive).
Four wheel drive can often give inexperienced drivers a false sense of security - the ability to go faster in snowy and icy
conditions and maintain traction on a straight road does not mean that the vehicle will turn or brake any better, and often
they don't handle very well at all when in four wheel drive (for example in skid). This overconfidence in four wheel drive
in poor conditions, and the higher speeds that result are often cited as a factor in collisions. Very often, a good set of
winter tires and a front wheel drive are as good or better, overall.
Safety:
In a collision, the heavier vehicle usually fares better. A heavily built old Mercedes is probably going to do better in a
collision than a lighter car of the same era in a collision, the penalty for weight, as always, being the need for more fuel.
SUV's and pickups, despite their bulkiness, do not really provide greater protection than a well-engineered car, especially
in a rollover. They do not handle as well and often do not brake as well as a car, and their higher center of gravity means
increased risk of rollover.
ENERGY CONTENT
The energy content of a given amount of vegetable oil is only a little less than that of diesel fuel, and is more than for
gasoline. Therefore, power and fuel economy on SVO is almost the same as on diesel. Under most conditions, there is little
or no perceptible difference to the driver between driving on diesel and driving on SVO.
RELIABILITY
1. SVO system reliability has improved greatly in a short period of time. The growing base of SVO users have contributed their
knowledge to that gained in production and sale of systems. The SVO kit components are of high quality, and can be expected
to work for many years. If you sell one vehicle, it is easy to remove the system (in less than a day), sell without it, and
put in on your next purchase. Filter elements are readily available.
2. Vegtherm heaters use the most advanced solid state heating element technology available. Relays, circuit breakers and wiring
are all oversized for the requirement. Screw terminals are used on the relay where needed and circuit breakers are sealed,
waterproof, auto-reset type.
3. Fuel selector valves and Hotfox tank heaters are derived from equipment supplied to the heavy truck industry.
4. The transfer pumps we supply for tank filling are intended for oils up to the viscosity of gear oil, not diesel fuel pumps!
They can better handle the thicker vegetable oils that will often burn out diesel fuel transfer pumps prematurely.
Oil Considerations... Used Cooking Oil The Easy Way...How to Use Used Cooking Oil in your kit...What It's Designed For,
What to Expect.
Here is an excerpt and a link from a good article on water in oil, and a basic test method for determining presence and approximate
amount of water in a sample. Wear proper safety gear, water in oil can cause hot oil to "spit" at you! So, safety glasses
or face shield, gloves, splash apron, etc.
PRE-heat a CAST IRON frying pan in an OVEN, or use an ELECTRIC FRYING PAN. DON'T USE ANY MORE THAN JUST
SMALL DROP
OF WELL-SETTLED OIL. ENSURE PAN IS NO HOTTER THAN INDICATED BELOW. One thing that you can also do, "for the road" or where
you don't have power, is get one of our 12VDC pad heaters, and an old aluminum camping pot or pan, stick the pad heater to
the bottom, and use your car battery as the power source. Handy!
"Because the effects of free and emulsified water are more harmful compared to dissolved water, a general rule of thumb is
to ensure that moisture levels remain well below the saturation point. For most in-service oils this means 100 to 300 ppm
or less depending on the oil type and temperature. However, even at these levels, a significant amount of damage can still
occur. Generally speaking, there is no such thing as too little water and every reasonable effort should be made to keep water
contamination as low as possible...
The most basic is the Crackle Test. In this test, a hot pan is held at 320°F (130°C) and a
small drop of oil placed
in the center. Any moisture present in the oil is reflected in the number of bubbles observed as the water vaporizes. Depending
on the lubricant, relatively few small bubbles indicate approximately 500 to 1,000 ppm (0.05 to 0.1 percent) water. Significantly
more bubbles of a larger size may indicate around 1,000 to 2,000 ppm water, while an audible crackling sound indicates moisture
levels in excess of 2,000 ppm. The Crackle Test is sensitive only to free and emulsified water."
http://www.maintenanceworld.com/Articles/barnesm/waterthe.html
A "six step" approach, starting with selecting the oil, is what is outlined below. It is what we and many of our customers
have done for several years:
1. Get non-hydrogenated oil *from the kitchen.* (not the dumpster. Give the restaurant our funnel and stand)
2. Let it settle. 2 weeks, room temperature.
3. Take the jugs out of the boxes and check for color, amount of settled crud and water.
4. Do the Crackle Test.
5. Use the 70 micron wand which doesn't reach to the bottom of the jug.
6. Have a Vormax, with its two stages of water separation including 10 micron filter, (or a 5 if the original filter is a
5)
So, what follows, then, is what we recommend.......
Oil Considerations... Used Cooking Oil The Easy Way...How We Use Used Cooking Oil ...What It's Designed For, What to Expect.
(Originally written by Craig Reece and Jennifer Radtke). Additional comments by Edward Beggs)
Golden Rule #1: Gravity and Time are your Friends, when in Comes to Filtering. A few weeks of settling at room temperature
makes a HUGE difference in how long the spin-on filter element will last on your Vormax onboard filter. Contaminants and free
water settle out. You then use our Wand and Pump to move the material into the SVO fuel tank.
Golden Rule #2: GET GOOD, LIQUID OIL. WE DON'T DESIGN FOR "GREASE". WE NEVER HAVE. WHY? IT ENCOURAGES THE USE OF HIGHLY
VARIABLE, CONTAMINATED, OXIDIZED, THICK, HIGH FREE FATTY ACID (ACIDS ETCH METALS!) OILS THAT ARE DIFFICULT TO HANDLE, GO
SOLID IN STORAGE CONTAINERS TOO EASILY, ARE GENERALLY NOT A GOOD FUEL, AND SHOULD BE CONVERTED TO BIODIESEL AS OPPOSED TO
BEING USED AS STRAIGHT VEGETABLE OIL.
WE ALSO ADVISE AGAINST TAKING ANY OIL FROM RESTAURANT "BACK-ALLEY" DRUMS OR DUMPSTERS. IT'S THEFT, IF IT'S IN A DRUM OR A
DUMPSTER - IT BELONGS TO THE RENDERER/CONTRACTOR NOT THE RESTAURANT. IT ALSO IS MUCH MORE LIKELY TO CONTAIN WATER AND OTHER
CONTAMINANTS. WE'VE SEEN EVERYTHING FROM DISPOSABLE DIAPERS TO MOTOR OIL AND OIL FILTERS IN THOSE THINGS! THE LONGER IT SITS
IN A DUMPSTER, THE MORE THE FFA'S BECOME ELEVATED, THE MORE OXIDIZED THE OIL BECOMES, ETC., ETC. READ ON FOR MORE DETAILS
OF WHAT WE *DO* AND DON'T RECOMMEND.
What is Good Oil?
Many people who have run on WVO (Waste Vegetable Oil) have gotten bad oil at one time and clogged their fuel filter or had
to pump it out of their fuel tank. Getting good oil isn’t hard and it’s worth it to be picky and get the best
oil you can. Good oil is free of water and food chunks and is liquid at outside temperatures (canola oil is good for winters).
Good oil is also not overused, so it’s not so rancid/acidic. Restaurants that either 1) change their oil every day or
2) change it weekly but don’t use it much are good candidates. Fast food restaurants generally have horrible oil.
1. DO NOT use oil that’s solid (or nearly solid) at outside temperatures (for example, don’t use oil containing
large amounts of animal fats. If your donor restaurant grills meat, try to talk them into giving you just the oil from the
fryer, and doing something else with the grill grease.)
2. Avoid hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated oil (check the small print on the boxes the restaurant gets the oil in to
be sure it’s not partially hydrogenated.) Partially hydrogenated oil can be used in the warmer months, but in the winter
months in colder climates will take longer to become liquid in your tank, filter and lines, and you’ll end up driving
on purchased fuel longer before switchover to WVO. It’s worth it to try to find a restaurant with non-hydrogenated oil.
3. DO NOT use oil that has water in it. Alert your restaurant that you can’t have water in the oil as well. If the oil
looks milky and/or not clear, it could have water.
4. Try not to use oil with LOTS of food chunks, tempura batter, or other foreign material. (The 70 micron filter in The Wand
will filter out this stuff, but it will need cleaning more often.)
5. DO NOT Pump the bottom 6 inches from a 55 gallon drum or dumpster behind a restaurant or the bottom inch in a 5 gallon
jug. This is where the water and food chunks will settle: leave it there and out of your fuel tank.
6. DO NOT EVER Pump/pour oil directly into your fuel tank without filtering.
Approaching Restaurants for Oil
Restaurants pay to have their waste oil taken away, so they are usually quite happy to have you take it for free. I usually
ask a restaurant owner or manager of a restaurant I frequent. They also think it’s cool that you are using it to fuel
your vehicle. Try to request the restaurants to pour it back into the 5 gallon plastic jugs-inside-a-cardboard box it comes
in. Getting it in the jugs also means you’ll be aware if they change what kind of oil they buy and you can decline
it if they change to partially hydrogenated.
Providing Your Restaurants with our Funnel and Stand
Make their life a little easier by giving them a big (3 gallon) galvanized funnel and a sturdy stainless steel stand for
it (and we sell it on the website) - they've been pouring into a 55 gallon drum with a removable drum end/cover or a large
grease dumpster‚ a much larger target than the neck of a cardboard-boxed plastic jug, and a large target is nice to
have when pouring from a fryer full to the brim that weighs about 40 pounds, full in this case with 5 gallons of warm fryer
oil. See “Pump, Wand, Funnel ” The stainless steel stand supports the funnel, eliminating the need for the kitchen
staff to carefully position the funnel on the box and eliminating the risk that the funnel will slip out of the jug mid-pour.
If the restaurants normally pour their oil in hot into the drum/dumpster from the fryer without letting it cool, the hot oil
will melt the plastic jugs. If you can’t convince them to let it cool (by pointing out that you are saving them money
by picking up their oil for free) provide them with metal fuel cans that won’t melt.
Providing them with a funnel and stand also lets them know you’re serious - you’ve invested in some infrastructure,
and this will help convince them that you’ll pick up their oil on the regular basis that you both agree to. I’d
suggest bringing a photo of the funnel and stand arriving at the restaurant to first approach them about picking up their
oil.
Advantages of the Vormax Filter
If you have a Vormax installed on your vehicle, lucky you, you can use our Pipeline Pump and filtering Wand to just pump settled
oil right into your tank - no bag filtering needed.
The Vormax was developed for big diesel rigs. Downtime for a big rig is costly - just taking one in for a fuel filter change
is costly in downtime. The designers of the Vormax incorporated a pre-filter that gets rid of most of the dirt and water -
if any - in the fuel before it gets to the (huge) spin-on cartridge. The dirt (or food chunks, in our application) and free
water in the fuel fall to the bottom of the clear Lexan pre-filter bowl, where they are visible and can be drained via the
drain valve. And the huge spin-on canister filters are available from us or locally. Truck service shops that maintain large
highway trucks are usually going to offer the best prices.
Settling Oil
The longer you let your oil settle before transferring to your fuel tank, the better, within reason - i.e. you want to use
the oil within a few months of collecting it. A few weeks of settling is the norm. Our Pipeline pump and cleanable filtering
Wand will also work for "dumpster diving", but if you're dumpster-diving for WVO, it's even more important to let the oil
settle - the longer the better - before pumping into your tank. And, see above, we DO NOT ADVOCATE DUMPSTER (DUMBSTER) DIVING.
Get oil that smells good, looks good (amber to light brown, transparent or translucent), pours easily at room temperature,
and get the restaurant to put it back in the jugs they bought it in, and CLEARLY LABEL IT with a SHARPIE PEN (Marker) or etc.
as being "USED COOKING OIL - INEDIBLE"....and DATE IT. On the cap is best. Advise the restaurant to do this, is even better.
At least have them write "WVO" or "UCO" on the caps.
Bring the oil home, and let it settle for a day or two, minimum...the longer the better - a few weeks is ideal. Then pump
it into your vehicle with 70 micron filter right from the 4.5 gallon restaurant jugs, or alternatively into a settling drum
or tote in the shed. If you don’t have the Vormax filter in your vehicle, you’ll need to bag filter down to at
least 5 micron.
Once you've got the cardboard stripped off the jugs, you may find that more settling is needed, and you can monitor the settling
process - unless there's almost nothing in the way of food scraps or water to start with. (generally, the heat of the fryer
will get rid of any small amount of water from frozen food, or water from rinsing fresh food.)
Using the PipeLine Pump
The PipeLine pump - the 12V pump we sell - is much more heavy duty than cheaper pumps, and less apt to burn out pumping oil
in the winter. I routinely pump over 100 gallons of oil continuously and my pump doesn’t even get hot to the touch.
Cheaper pumps will burn out easily even in the summer from the thickness of the vegetable oil. I use the pump, connected to
a portable jump-start battery, available at auto parts stores everywhere, or Northern Tool, or Graingers.
The Wand
We sell a pre-filtering wand that has a stainless mesh suction filter installed inside a PVC tube. The filter is 70 microns,
with a pleated stainless screen over a stainless support tube.
Cleaning the Filter inside the Wand
The suction filter is cleanable, so you never need to buy another one. Use Castrol Superclean, Purple Power, or Greased
Lighting, available at most auto parts stores. Castrol Superclean is best by the gallon, the best sprayer out there is made
by ZEP. The Wand does not reach all the way to the bottom of restaurant jugs - it stops short by about 3” - so by default
it leaves the settled crud on the bottom.
Dumpster-Diving ‚ How to Do It Right (if you're going to do it at all)
Dumpster-diving oil means taking oil from a drum or oil dumpster behind a restaurant .One problem is that an outside drum/dumpster
can have rainwater in it, leaves/debris, and even motor oil/etc. that other people have dumped there. This is why it’s
much better to be getting your oil directly from a restaurant in jugs.
First, smell the oil. It’s best if it smells like food (and not like vinegar/rancid). It shouldn't smell like motor
oil. Using the VEGAUTO Pump and Wand, hold the wand so you are just pumping from the very top of the oil (the top inch or
two), and pump into containers. Don’t let the wand drop to the bottom. The wand will filter out food chunks and debris.
It’s good to have an extra filter for the wand, so when it clogs, you can just switch the filter out at the dumpster
w/o having to clean it. Leave at least 6 inches of oil at the bottom of the drum/dumpster; don’t chance it, especially
if you don’t regularly dumpster dive at this restaurant, because it could very well have lots of water in it. Take the
oil home, let it settle, then use the Crackle Test to check for water before using the VEGAUTO Pump and Wand to pump into
your tank.
MAKING A "TWO-DRUM" PREFILTER / STORAGE SYSTEM
This is a neat way to do some more prefiltering and really get maximum Time-Between-Cleanings (TBC) of the Wand, and to
get SFL (Spinon Filter Life) out of your filter elements on the Vormax. Gotta love TLA's (Three Letter Acronyms), right?
Buy two used 55 gallon drums, one steel open-headed (removable top with a ring that holds the lid on) and one white translucent
poly closed-head drum.
If you can't find them used, to buy them new,
click:
US Plastic 55 gallon drums.
To buy a 200 micron "drum
screen" click:
US Plastic drum screen.
(If the link doesn't work, it's their item # 10875, just
type that into the search field on their website:
http://www.usplastic.com or call them at 800-537-9724.)
Buy some 7" x 16" (or 18" - I forget) PENG25PIP filter bags
(25 micron) from these people:
FSI Filters.
Use a jigsaw or a 7" holesaw to cut 2 or 3 7" diameter holes in the poly top of the poly drum. Drop 2 or 3 filterbags into
the holes.
Install the 100 micron drum screen onto the 55 gallon steel open-head drum. Pour your jugs of WVO carefully through the drum
screen, slowly, and stop pouring when the "yucky stuff" on the bottom of the jugs starts to flow. Those last few inches can
be consolidated into one jug, and "resettled", and re-poured later.
Use your VEGAUTO pump and VEGAUTO wand to draw from that drum, but never all the way to the bottom - let the sub-100-micron
yuck settle there, where you can occasionally clean it out. You can also get some really great things called "drum liners"
to put in there before you ever use the drum. That material can then be composted or disposed of and a new bag inserted.
Pump through the wand into the 2 or 3 filterbags in the poly drum. When one filterbag fills up, start filling the 2nd one,
and repeat this process until the level of WVO in the poly drum is just below the bottom of the bags or until you've pumped
all but the bottom 6" or so of the steel drum.
Remove one of the bags when you want to fill your car - insert the wand, and pump into your tank.
You can buy 120V band heaters that clamp around the bottom of a steel drum, and set the thermostat to give you temps in the
100-110F range, and keep it heated to those temps for 24 hours, which will speed settling of crud and water. Test the finished
product for water via the Hot Pan Test.
All the above assumes it's fairly warm. You cannot get oil to pass a filter bag if you are working in a cold garden shed in
winter, for example. A heated workspace is easiest, to be sure. If that is impossible, and you only have a very small storage
space available, just bring a few jugs at a time into a warm spot in the house, let them settle, and pump out of them with
the wand and pump. You'll still get decent TBC's and SFL's, just not as long as using the Two-Drum setup.
After awhile, you'll find you have some empty jugs, and a pile of flattened cardboard boxes the jugs were packaged in. What
to do with them follows.
(And please remember our tip, above, that you want to *not* remove the cardboard until you're ready to process the oil in
the jugs, because they stack nicely only if the cardboard is still on them, and remember that you *do* want to remove the
cardboard just prior to starting to process the oil, so that you can see how much settled crud - and water, if any - is on
the bottom.
And if you pour the contents of the jugs into a drum with a drumscreen, you'll be able to stop pouring before the crud and
water exit the jug. If you're using our Pump and Wand to pump from the jugs, you'll leave the stuff on the bottom by default,
since the Wand does not reach all the way to the bottom.)
So, back to the pile of cardboard and empty jugs:
Try and recycle it - you will be doing society, and the restaurant a service, by the way in all of this, since a restaurant
very often just tosses the whole jug and cardboard sleeve into a solid waste dumpster. If they do, there is no recycling of
these, and it also takes up considerable space in a dumpster and in a landfill.
Often the cardboard is clean enough to be recycled (some places won't take it if it's oily and dirty, so encourage the restaurant
to use our funnel and stand - which you can give to them, if you wish, and put cooled oil (under 100F, say) NEATLY into the
jugs. It's a good idea for them to put an "X" on the caps with a Sharpie pen when they are done, to ensure they will not accidentally
mix them up with new jugs.
